Round Wood Table, The Sawn Veneers. Part 3

Veneer Plan

For this table we are going to do a pinwheel layout with a random match since we cannot get enough veneers out of any one board.  To make the veneer manageable for gluing to the ground (table top), the top was divided into 6 section to be divided by an inlay that ended at key blocks in the inner  and outer edge bands.  After looking over the stock of wood for the veneers, most of our boards were in the 7 ½” range so we could divide each section into 7 veneers with a cord length of approximately 7”. We then cut the 8/4” stock into rough lengths, followed by face jointing, planing, edge jointing and ripping to uniform width.


Resaw setup


A guide was set up on the band saw to cut pieces that were 3/16”, allowing us to get 7 veneers per piece of 8/4” stock

This is the pile as it came off the saw.  We always put a V mark with a felt pen on the edge of the board before sawing to be able to keep track of each board and its order.

The Grizzly Drum Sander

From there we went to the drum sander and sanded down to 1/8”.  The drum sander was set up with 60 grit and 100 grit on the 2 drums. They were then sorted into front side and backside piles, each board kept in its own pile so we could randomize easier when final layout was done.

A table saw jig was made to saw the angle on the veneers. It had to be done in 2 passes.  I made a template as accurately as I could of the finished veneer angle cuts. Setting the pattern on a veneer and drawing the lines, I was able to set the first cut.  All the veneers were cut for the backside veneers first.

Before the veneers were cut, we did a random layout to see how it looked.


From the Circumference numbers, we stretched a thin steel tape around the edge and made accurate marks at the 6 quadrant points. Setting a long straight edge across the top, we were able to clamp on an accurate boundary for a quadrant.  The fence was reset on the jig to cut the 2nd angle and a  batch of 7 was cut to test the fit.  The jig was tweaked to get it as close as possible but the final fit was done by a tapering cut on the jointer.  Only 2 to 4 veneers were jointed in this manner per quadrant.

3 quadrants were set up at a time and the veneers were edge glued. Waxed paper was put under the veneers and then they were clamped in place. The edge clamping pressure for glueing  was provided by the wedge action from the shape of the veneers. They had to be clamped so that as you pushed on one the others wouldn’t pop back out.  After they were set up in this manner, we removed one at a time, added hot hide glue from a small opening squeeze bottle and quickly pushed the removed veneer back in place. Only a bead of glue was put on the stationary veneer.  The edges were checked for being flush vertically; end clamped and held down with a pad and brick.  The glue was cleaned off after a couple of hours with a scraper. Wiping off the excess glue with a wet rag would add too much water to the veneers and cause them to buckle.

We only had to repair one quadrant that was broken in handling and it did not break on the glue line.

After allowing the quadrants to remain clamped overnight, they were scraped on the back side and stacked with spacers.  A fan was used to drive all residual moisture from the panels. We moved on to steam bending the inner and outer edge bands for the table.  That process will follow in the next post.




4 Responses



looks like you are having fun


what an excellent presentation, even your old dad can make it out


Your Comments
You are, indeed,an Artist

Leave Your Response

* Name, Email, Comment are Required

7 − one =